Friday, August 02, 1996
SONS OF SELINA
Thursday, August 31, 1995
A Day Around Rhodes
We set off 10,000 Drax lighter, having hired a little Fiat Panda for the day. With Anna navigating and Marni in the back in a makeshift carseat, we eased out onto the coastal ring road. For the most part it runs smooth and immaculate, ruler-straight along the shoreline, with the Aegean glittering on one side and the scorched hills of Rhodes rising on the other.
Our first real stop was Monolithos Castle, about 70km southwest of Rhodes Town. Perched dramatically on a rock above the sea, its ruined walls and chapels seem to cling to the cliffs, offering staggering views across to Halki and the scatter of islands beyond. From there we wound down the Z-bends — a curling, hairpin descent — until we reached a small, secluded beach directly opposite the little island of Stregilo. The sea was still, clear as glass, and we let Marni stretch her legs on the pebbles before heading on.
Back up into the hills we drove, reaching Siana, a small mountain village famous for its honey and souma (a fiery local spirit). Lunch there, however, left a bitter taste — the bill padded and the service perfunctory. From my previous Greek experiences, having lived here, it's evident that greed was beginning to backfire on the tourist trade in Greece, with overpricing leaving package holidays unsold. Sitting in Siana, it felt uncomfortably true.
From Siana we cut inland, chasing petrol. The little Panda was running low by the time we found a pump in Apolona, another hill village some 40 km inland. Refuelled, we considered pressing on to Platania, but the road ahead was little more than rubble and dust. After a cautious look at the cliff edge, we swung a U-turn, retraced our way back, and cut across the spine of the island towards Salakos.
That brought us eventually to the Valley of the Butterflies — Petaloudes. It’s a shady, green gorge about 25 km southwest of Rhodes Town, famous for the clouds of Jersey Tiger moths that gather in their thousands each summer. We parked and walked the two-mile path: bridges, wooden walkways, and endless stone steps climbing beside streams and waterfalls. Butterflies clung to tree trunks in thick clusters, flashing orange and black wings when disturbed. The climb was punishing in the August heat, made more trying by the pushy crowds (the Italian tourists in particular treating the place like a theme park), but it was worth the effort for the quiet glades at the top.
By the time we emerged, it was late afternoon, and we decided to take the long loop back around the north of the island — partly by accident, since we’d left the map in the hotel. The detour stretched the journey, but with the windows down and the coastline unspooling beside us, it was hard to complain.
Evening fell as we finally rolled into Lardos, a lively little village about 55 km south of Rhodes Town. We stopped for tea, glad to rest. But Rhodes had one more twist in store: after finishing up and setting off again, we took a wrong turn, drove for twenty minutes through the dark countryside, and somehow — impossibly — found ourselves right back in Lardos, or Lard Arse as we called it.
Saturday, August 27, 1994
The (Non) Events Arena Festival, Rhyl
What a total farce. I should’ve known from the start, really. When the production manager, told me there’d be “10 to 15,000 people” there, I took him at his word. What I didn’t realise was that he actually meant ten. Not ten thousand — just ten. That’s about how it felt when we rolled up to the so-called “festival.”
The gig was supposed to be a charity event, raising money for Shelter. A good cause, which is why we’d agreed to do it. But the pair of tossers organising it insisted on handling the advertising themselves, instead of leaving it to someone who knew what they were doing. The result? The only poster I ever saw was a scrappy A4 sheet taped up in a Chinese chippy. It looked more like a college enrolment form than a festival flyer, and our name was buried at the bottom like an afterthought. That was their masterstroke in marketing.
When the Sons Of Selina turned up at 7pm — two hours before we were due on — the site was dead. No bands playing, maybe a hundred people milling about looking lost. Just as a few coachloads of people began arriving, the council showed up, locked themselves in the control room and pulled the plug. Their excuse? “The decibel levels are too high, residents are complaining.” This from the same bunch now under investigation for £7 million worth of fraud.
To make matters worse, the whole arena had been designed back-to-front in the first place. The stage faced the town instead of the sea, so any noise went straight into people’s living rooms. Years of local taxes wasted, and for what? An arena that now only gets used once a year, for the bloody Radio One Roadshow.
I actually tried to reason with Councillor David Davies. Asked him what he thought his actions meant for the bands, or for the people who’d travelled miles to see us and Primitive Faith. His reply was smug, priggish, almost gleeful. His colleagues sat there sneering, gloating in self-satisfaction. I felt violence bubbling under my skin, but I held back. Better to let it fester and save it for the music. Besides, I knew the fraud scandal would catch up with them eventually. Big boys in prison, with fallen men for company — I almost look forward to it.
We never played. Primitive Faith never played. Nobody did. What could’ve been a decent night for a good cause was smothered by a mix of incompetence, arrogance, and amateurism.
In my frustration I wrote to the papers. I called out the council for their hypocrisy and the organisers for their half-baked advertising. I even urged anyone left out of pocket to claim back their expenses — and, if by some miracle they ever saw a penny, to donate it to Shelter anyway, since that’s what the whole thing was meant to be about. I ended the letter with one final lesson: never use council property, and never trust anyone whose posters look like car boot sale adverts.
That’s what we were left with. No gig, no sound, no stage. Just another farce in Rhyl — the kind of small-town mess you couldn’t make up if you tried.
Friday, August 19, 1994
Sons Of Selina - The Bistro, Rhyl
It only took four years, three singles, one album, and a Radio One session before Sons of Selina finally played our first hometown gig. People always asked: why not sooner? The truth is I never wanted to get caught up in the local band mentality that swirls around Rhyl like bad weather. Every town has it — the rivalries, the gossip, the back-slapping with knives hidden behind backs — but when it’s your own patch it feels toxic. We kept our distance. We avoided the sycophantic local press. We didn’t want to be part of that small-town scene. The only local band I’d seen and genuinely enjoyed recently were The Fluff.
Still, sooner or later you’ve got to face your own doorstep.
A few days before the gig I’d floated the idea of projecting a video I’d put together with Dave the Rave (ex-PSST) over the stage while we played. On a Delerium Records budget it was wishful thinking. Luckily, Bonehead came up with a cheaper, brilliantly daft alternative: six TV sets wired up behind the stage, all running the same footage. With Roger Bickley’s (ex-ZODIAQUE UK) handy wiring skills and a £37 booster amp, it worked. A DIY multimedia extravaganza.
Steve Jones (of White Tygerz, Heroes on a Beach, Picture House, and nearly SOS himself at one point) handled the PA. We’d finished soundcheck by 9pm, but weren’t due on for another two and a half hours. That gap worried me. Robin was on his second pint, and I couldn’t shake the memory of the infamous PSST incident that ended in him facing seven charges. So I did the only sensible thing: I marched the lot of them back to mine to kill time.
When we returned to The Bistro the place was heaving — over 250 people, jammed into every corner. At £2 a head, that’s about £500 through the door, with £170 making its way into our pockets and the rest lining the Trehearns’ tills. Whatever my misgivings about playing Rhyl, that sight of the room buzzing with our people, our town, was special.
The set blurred past in a rush of noise, screens flickering behind us, all of us throwing ourselves into it. This was the Sons of Selina line-up in full: me on vocals, Robin, Martin and Bonehead wielding three guitars between them, Ken Maynardis on bass, Steve on keyboards, and Cumi on drums. It felt like a proper homecoming, even if it had taken us years to get there.
The next morning there was no time to bask in it. Delerium hauled us out of bed for a photo shoot, and those bleary-eyed pictures are now plastered all Kerrang!. Around the same time, the NME ran an ad for us in their small-ads section:
SONS OF SELINA: AVAILABLE FOR WEDDINGS, FUNERALS & CHILDREN’S PARTIES (WE NEITHER).
It still makes me laugh.
Wednesday, August 10, 1994
Sons Of Selina - The Archway Tavern, Islington
It was one of those nights that made me wonder what the fuck we were doing. Just a few weeks earlier we’d blasted through a live Radio One session, going out to millions. Now here we were, Sons of Selina, driving five hours down the M6 / M1 in a battered rental van that had cost us £127 in hire, deposit and diesel, only to end up playing to about 30 punters in a pub in Islington.
On the way home Martin missed the M6 turn-off and said, deadpan: “The other bands didn’t want to know us and we didn’t want to know them.” He was right. From the moment we walked into the Archway Tavern it felt like we’d wandered into someone else’s party uninvited. The other bands kept themselves to themselves, and so did we.
The set-up was odd. The pub had two bars, and while we were playing most of the regulars stayed in the other one, uninterested. We were hammering out our noise to a thin line of faces who didn’t quite know what to make of us. But gradually — maybe halfway through the set — a few heads started turning. By the end, people drifted in from the other bar, craning to see what the racket was, realising something was happening. We might have only had thirty new friends by the time we packed up, but they were our thirty.
As for the other bands — Mantaray weren’t bad, very Jam-influenced at the time, though I’ve since heard they morphed into an Oasis-type affair. Spitbaby, on the other hand, were unlistenable, so we sat in the bar while they did their thing and counted that as a tactical retreat.
The Sons’ line-up was in flux then: me on vocals, Robin and Martin on guitars, Bonehead on a third guitar, Ken Maynardis on bass, Cumi on drums, and Steve on keyboards, who gave the whole thing its oddball edge. We were a strange beast, half-punk, half-psychedelic, with too many guitars and too much beer, but we made it work.
On the long drive back north, slumped in the van, I asked myself out loud: “Was it really worth it? Worth the money, the miles, the effort to play to 30 people?” And then I answered myself: yeah. Because those 30 people got something real, and for an hour we made London ours. Besides, we even got paid £20 for it — so I guess we’re big-time now.
Wednesday, August 03, 1994
Live at the BBC: Sons of Selina Take on Studio 3
After weeks of waiting, the day had finally arrived. At 2pm, Steve Bonehead picked me up, and so began the chaotic dance of assembling people, instruments, and nerves for the 1 hour 15 minute drive to Manchester. Our destination loomed in the skyline — the unmistakable BBC building on Oxford Road, casting its shadow over us like a headmaster waiting to judge a late homework assignment.
We checked in, got our ID passes, and before heading into battle, made a quick dash across the road to Amigo’s, the overpriced Mexican place, for some food. I thought I was feeling the nerves — until I clocked Martin, who looked like he was ready to dissolve into his fajitas. True to form, ten minutes before we were due to go live, Martin quietly disappeared to the toilet, following Steve, who’d already made his own nervous pilgrimage just five minutes earlier.
Inside the BBC, I was pleased to see that the Sons of Selina sticker I’d slapped in the studio loos on a previous visit (back in September) was still stuck fast. It had since been joined by a proud colony of new ones — quiet, sticky proof of our ongoing guerilla marketing campaign.
We were ushered into Studio 3, also known as the Drama Studio, where we began the ritual of set-up with our sound engineers, Tony and Dave. Over the next hour and a half, mics were tested, cables untangled, and the three guitarists did their best to channel the spirit (and noise level) of Jimi Hendrix’s ghost. Eventually, we pulled it together and ran through the four tracks we’d be playing live on air that night.
10:20pm — go time. You could practically hear seven sphincters tighten in unison as the red light went on. I had a quick on-air chat with Mark Radcliffe about Welsh football (as you do), took a cheeky dig at Delerium for being "chickenshits" about not releasing our first live track, and then — boom — we launched into Climb. Fueled by adrenaline, it was blisteringly fast — probably twice the speed it was supposed to be — but it was the best version we’d ever played. Every note was dead on. Honestly, that rush should be bottled and sold to junkies. We were flying.
About 45 minutes later, Radcliffe introduced Of The First Water, with Bonehead opening on the mellow guitar line. Again — perfect. After that came a longer interview segment, full of piss-taking and ridiculous banter. I even got Radcliffe squirming for cueing up Gamoto Manopano wrong the night before. Steve Sync and Lard then treated the nation to a bizarre monosynth duet, before we ripped into "For Want of a Better Name", which Radcliffe proudly called “blistering.”
Just before our final song, we heard that listeners were phoning in, trying to work out what “Sons of Selina” is an anagram of — no one got it (and no, I’m still not telling). Then came Terminus, just after 11:35pm. Midway through, Martin hit the wrong chord. It threw me, briefly — I was singing the line "Soon all the day of the imperial haze will be lost in the dark of the past" while inside my head was spiraling: Have we blown it? Was this the moment it all unravelled? But I pulled it together — told myself to snap out of it — and we powered through to the end.
After we’d gone off air, Rachel Elmet walked in and said, “That was brilliant. Did you say fucked?” Cue a room full of raised eyebrows. Apparently, the producer had rung down from upstairs, convinced someone had sworn live on Radio One. The engineers were all exchanging looks too. Turns out, they misheard the line “It’s a sad fact…” in "Terminus". I had to do some serious convincing that I hadn’t just dropped an F-bomb on national radio. For the record: I said fact, not facked. Only cockneys say that!
All in all, an incredible night. Pure energy. Live music how it’s meant to be — full of mistakes, adrenaline, banter, and magic.
Thursday, July 21, 1994
The Reign of Janet & Dave
Every workplace has its villain. Ours was Janet.
Janet wasn’t just unpopular; she was a full-time dispenser of misery. She strutted around with this pig-headed arrogance, convinced she was management material when in reality she was just management’s headache. If something went wrong — and it usually did — it was never her fault. She’d just turn on the waterworks, mutter something about “pressure,” and somehow make herself the victim. Classic Janet.
Then came the masterstroke: she got her husband, Dave, a job with us.
Now, Dave was a wagon driver — but not just any wagon driver. He was a connoisseur of lay-bys. To him, the open road wasn’t about destinations or deadlines. No, it was about spotting that perfect patch of tarmac where he could pull over, recline the seat, and lose three hours in blissful slumber. If you were looking for Dave, you wouldn’t find him at the depot, you wouldn’t find him on schedule — you’d find him halfway up the A55, parked in a lay-by, surrounded by crisp packets and the faint hum of Radio 2.
Janet and Dave together were a double-act of dysfunction. She’d storm about the office, belittling anyone within range, while he perfected the art of doing bugger-all in scenic roadside locations. Bonnie and Clyde, if Bonnie wore cheap perfume and Clyde was welded to a cab seat.
The rest of us could only watch in disbelief. She thrived on creating chaos, he thrived on avoiding work, and somehow the pair of them managed to make life harder for everyone else. She’d stir things up inside the building, he’d grind operations to a halt outside it. A real tag team of torment.
Still, in a way, they were unforgettable. If you’ve ever seen a wagon parked smugly in a lay-by for the fifth time that week, you’ve seen Dave’s true genius. And if you’ve ever had your day ruined by someone pretending to be your superior while actually knowing less than you do, you’ve met your own Janet.
We carried on, grumbling, laughing bitterly, and praying for retirement. Because, in the end, the one thing Janet and Dave gave us — apart from ulcers — was a shared enemy. And in an office like ours, that was almost worth it.
Saturday, April 11, 1992
Ludicrous Lollipops come to Rhyl
Spent the day prepping video stuff shooting footage around town then got ready to play at Rhyl with the Ludicrous Lollipops and the Psycho Sexual Sex Terrestrials. About 130 people showed up, which was pretty decent. Gotta say, this was our best performance so far—got a brilliant response from the crowd. Wayne was filming the whole thing, so hopefully we’ve got some good footage.
Our set went down well: LIAR, BEIRUT IN RHYL, JOHNNY BARNES, PERSONAL WARS, KENNEDY, POWERFUL PETE, £2.17, LIFE GOES ON, STUART, FATAL ATTRACTION, then finished with KENNEDY again. Felt tight and energetic, the kind of night where everything just clicks.
The Ludicrous Lollipops were great too. For anyone who doesn’t know, they’re a Nottingham band — tight, melodic indie stuff with a solid fanbase. Their set was really well done and well supported by the crowd. Only hiccup was when Paul’s “lady of the moment” got on stage and shouted that the Lollipops were shit, telling them to get off so PSST could play. The vocalist handled it brilliantly though — he told everyone, “This is my mum, she always does this. Fuck off mum.” The crowd loved that.
Later on, Paul gave Chunky a hard time for buying a Lollipops T-shirt, insults were traded including “Scouse cunt” and “roll on the 3rd Reich”. Just shows how petty band politics can get, and Chunky's not even in the band!
After the gig, I headed up to the Bistro for some beers to get away from all the drama. Nice to chill and enjoy the buzz from a great night of music.
Saturday, February 22, 1992
Psycho Sexual Sex Terrestrials live at Rhyl Bus Station (Outdoor)
Woke to the sound of rain hammering the window and figured there was no way Paul and the rest would go through with an outdoor gig in this weather. But sure enough, by 2pm the band were set up opposite Rhyl bus station—my 75th performance—standing in the cold February drizzle with the wind cutting through us.
We were basically outside The Mermaid pub, plugged into the mains courtesy of their socket, and facing the bus station proper. Buses trundled in and out, passengers gawping through steamed-up windows at the sight of a band belting out three-chord rubbish to a crowd of about 15 hardy souls. Rain or not, it was great fun—exactly the kind of daft, one-off spectacle you don’t see every day… or any day, come to that.
Among the sodden but smiling faces were Anna, Wayne, Robin, Adam, and Cumi’s Jane, plus oddly curious locals who stuck around instead of catching the next bus. The sound was surprisingly good considering the conditions, and by the end everyone seemed impressed—perhaps by our music, perhaps by our sheer lunacy.
To top it off, Bob Kelly offered to cover £125 of our £250 bill for a 24-track studio session, which he’s booking for the end of March. Not bad for an afternoon spent getting soaked and entertaining Rhyl’s public transport clientele.
Sunday, February 02, 1992
Psycho Sexual Sex Terrestrials / Jon Bon 10p at Wrexham Cartrefle College
Between three battered cars, every scrap of PSST gear was wedged in with human cargo, and the convoy rolled east to Wrexham. Along for the ride were Chunky, Rob Snapshot, and Scott (who was way OTT tonight). Back at the House of Crud, Wayne and Robin stayed behind painting until Anna and Sian swung by to collect them at 8pm.
Soundcheck was the usual scramble of wires, amps, and expletives. Iwan from the Student Union had us written-off before a note was played—handing over our massive £15 “expenses” as if to say, that’s all you’re worth, lads. The place was dead (well, it was a Sunday night), so Dean, Tommy, and the roadies went prowling the campus like door-to-door lunatics, dragging in anyone who’d listen. Somehow, they swelled the numbers to about forty.
Time to thaw the room. Cue Jon Bon 10p—me and Robin’s comedy double act, which exists purely to take the piss. A million miles from our more serious psyche-punk project Sons of Selina, we launched into a shambolic Floral Dance / Imagine / Last Dance medley, ad-libbing through the parts we’d forgotten and cracking ourselves up in the process.
By the end, they wanted more—so much so that we got invited back for rag week in a fortnight. Not bad for a night that started like a wake.
Not everything was smooth sailing. I lost my rag at Dean for taking the piss out of a Rasta by calling him “Bob.” He got defensive, I got angrier, and that was that—point made.
Anna drove Sian, Wayne, Robin, and me home. I flogged 15 copies of Crud #7 along the way—proving once again that a gig’s worth isn’t just measured in applause, but in how many fanzines you can shift before the amps are back in the van well, cars.
Tuesday, January 21, 1992
Sons of Selina – Mixing “Anxiety” in the Summerhouse
Six hours straight in Robin’s summerhouse-studio in Colwyn Bay, and we emerged battered, knackered but victorious. The “studio” was really the converted summerhouse at the back of his parents’ garden — a space barely big enough for a desk, a bed, a rack of gear, and the tangle of leads that seemed to grow overnight. Robin also lived there, so the smell of instant coffee, cigarettes and stale chip-shop wrappers hung in the air alongside the hum of synths.
We were mixing Anxiety for our burgeoning Sons Of Selina project, and it was heavy going on a Tascam 4-track. The recording was a dense sonic jigsaw that needed constant 'bouncing down' to make space to record more: two rhythm guitars, a slide guitar, bass, sequenced drums, organ, a string pad, mono synth solo, and enough vocal trickery to keep any engineer sweating. Delay on every vocal line’s end, reverse cymbals with a seven-second delay opening the song, reverse reverb on the first three cymbal crashes (with a sneaky extra delay on the third), dry vocals for verse three, a subtle guitar delay on the final note, chorus on the solo backing vocals, double vocals to close verse three, triple vocals for the final chorus run, and a few extra cymbals hammering the first four beats for good measure.
The summerhouse would shake each time we pushed the faders. Robin hunched over the desk in his wool jumper, cigarette dangling, muttering about “getting the stereo image just right.” I perched by the tiny heater, notebook in hand, making sure each mad production decision was locked in before fatigue wiped our memories.
By the time we bounced the final mix, it felt like we’d built a small sonic cathedral in that cramped garden room. Outside, the January cold bit hard — inside, the air was thick, warm, and buzzing with the hum of cables and the satisfaction of a job well done.
(In other news, the Rhyl Journal had a PSST photo running that week, advertising for a new drummer — Jon had buggered off to Canada with my ex-girlfriend. I guess bands, like songs, are always in a state of remix and mixing girlfriends eh!.)
Saturday, January 18, 1992
Psycho Sexual Sex Terrestrials – Live at Mold Sureways
My 72nd gig
After nearly eighteen months away from a full live set, stepping back onto the stage at Mold Sureways felt both alien and familiar. The Psycho Sexual Sex Terrestrials were never about complexity—three or four chords, often in the same order—but about attitude, noise, and the peculiar thrill of being in a band. The setlist was a blast through the core of PSST’s repertoire: Liar, Beirut in Rhyl, Life Goes On, Kennedy, Fatal Attraction, £2.17, Death on the Motorway, Scared, the instrumental Happy as Larry (with Paul on bass), and Melanie-Jane.
Off-stage, the mood was less harmonious—Jon’s prattish antics during soundcheck and Paul’s subsequent sulking stirred memories of difficult 4Q gigs. Yet when the lights dimmed and the first chords rang out, the frustrations fell away. The room, crammed with what felt like hundred bodies, vibrated with the raw energy of a band leaning into its own ragged edges. It wasn’t perfect, it was a bit shit, but was good fun (I think)
Sunday, October 20, 1991
The Hunters Inn: Business As Usual
The next morning, an almost smug air of satisfaction hung about everyone aware of the situation. It was short-lived.
Chris, it turned out, didn't have the heart for confrontation. The anticipated morning confrontation fizzled into an embarrassing anti-climax: Malcolm was not sacked. It was simply business as usual.
Once again, I felt like I'd been tossed up in the air just as my feet had found solid ground. The Sunday dinner was still on, but the stability I craved was nowhere in sight. Still, I adopted the "take it as it comes" approach. I found myself serving behind the bar and ended up spending four whole hours writing a letter to Celiné in French, attempting to capture all the things I couldn’t say on the phone. My concentration was tested not just by the complex grammar, but by the sub-zero temperatures in my moth-ridden room where I later finished the letter.
The hunger I felt the night before is now a constant, raging issue. I think my stomach is officially putting in for overtime—I’m continually hungry since I’ve been here, and it’s going to be scoff, scoff all the way from now on. This may pose a slight difficulty considering what I’ve already managed to consume today: a full cooked breakfast, a Sunday roast, two bowls of cereal, and a chili with rice! But space will be made.
More tomorrow...
Saturday, October 19, 1991
Hunters Inn: The Tally and the Threat
The trouble, as always, started over money—a pitifully small sum, yet enough to tear the seams of the Hunters Inn wide open. Malcolm Penis, fueled by some inexplicable petty fury, cornered Mel and Marni, flatly accusing them of pilfering £2.60 from the till. The sheer insult of the accusation, the sting of being branded thieves for such a negligible amount, left them speechless only for a moment. They didn't argue. They simply picked up their things, glared at Malcolm, and walked out, leaving a gaping hole in the evening rota and a fresh surge of venom in Malcolm’s system.
His foul mood found its next target moments later. Desperate, Malcolm sought out Jason but was flatly refused any cannabis. The rejection was like a match to a dry wick. Malcolm’s face darkened, contorting into a mask of pure rage, and he threw a terrifying wobbler, his words laced with threats to punch Jason into the middle of next week.
The clamor reached the ear of Chris. It was the last straw. “That’s it,” he declared, nodding decisively to Martin. “It’s time the chef left. You and I, Martin, we’ll be doing the deed in the morning.” The die was cast. Malcolm was out, whether he knew it or not.
Meanwhile, in a quieter corner of the Inn, Neil was trying to repair his own small fractures. He had just hung up the phone after a brief, slightly cheerless call with Celiné in France. The muffled sounds of her parents in the background had kept the conversation disappointingly clipped. Still, the day wasn't a total bust—Chris had given him the crucial go-ahead to cook tomorrow's prized Sunday dinner.
Sunday dinner. That was solid. That was dependable.
Neil needed that win after his day of haphazard generosity. Only hours earlier, he had lent Jason a surprisingly hefty £40, a sum he could ill afford to spare. And just before that, he had been embroiled in the frantic retrieval of Jason’s new hi-fi—a favour he owed to John and Christine. The trip hadn’t ended well; the moment they dropped the stereo off, Christine's old car lost its brakes completely, forcing them to call out the RAC, leaving Neil feeling indirectly responsible for the mechanical calamity.
Now, as the Inn’s staff buzzed with the news, speculation mounted. How would Malcolm react when he discovered his tenure was ending? Most expected him to lash out, a volcanic explosion of aggression. It had been silently agreed that only Neil could intervene should the situation get out of hand.
But the thought of controlling Malcolm didn't bother Neil too much, and he let the prospect pass like smoke.
More tomorrow...
Thursday, September 19, 1991
PSST gig and arrests are made
I had just come back from three months working in Greece. No sooner had my feet touched Rhyl soil than I found myself back in the chaos — onstage with Psycho Sexual Sex Terrestrials at the Bistro.
The band were already in bits before I even walked in. Robin was pissed, Paul was pissed, Jon and Scott were pissed. Dean, ex–Dam Yankee, was holding it together on rhythm guitar, while Hot Scott was doubling up on bass. I clambered up and joined them for Kennedy and Distance, hammering the bass and generally wrecking the place. The set was a shambles — Robin broke two strings and just carried on regardless, Dean stopped mid-song to bollock Scott for fucking up, and I threw myself into what a reviewer described as a typical demonic Crud performance.
But the gig was a blast. A sweaty, chaotic mess of music, broken strings, shouting, and laughter. It was also the last time the Bistro allowed live music for quite some time. We burned it down in spirit, if not in flames.
The after-show was pure carnage. Paul was trying to juggle not one but two girlfriends — both sat at the same table, glaring daggers, while one of them, soon to be his wife and mother of his child, tried not to combust. The whole band was spiralling into chaos, fuelled by drink and bravado.
Leaving the gig, things got darker. Dean was assaulted outside, which sent Paul, Robin, and Jon — who doubled as a Special Constable — into vigilante mode. Dean spotted one of the culprits, so Jon screeched his car to a halt, leaving the engine running and doors wide open, Robin drunk in the back seat. Dean, Paul, and Jon bolted after the lad, Jon arresting him in full Special Constable glory.
But when they returned to the car, it was gone. Vanished. Robin, in his drunken wisdom, had decided to “help” by moving it out of the road to avoid an accident. Unfortunately, he moved it straight into the path of a police car.
The cops saw he was pissed and hauled him out. Robin, furious at not being recognised as the upstanding citizen he believed he was, kicked off. He lashed out at the officers, smashed the windows of their van, and earned himself seven charges: assault, destruction of police property, drunk driving, no insurance — the full house.
The entire band somehow ended up in the police station, joined by one of Paul’s girlfriends who had just discovered the other one existed. She was screaming, “I hope you catch fucking AIDS!” at the top of her lungs while Robin raged in his cell. The police even tried to confiscate the video of the gig to use as evidence. They didn’t get it.
By some miracle — maybe because Jon was a Special Constable, maybe because Robin had some kind of luck lodged in his bones — he walked away lighter than he should have.
It was a hell of a welcome home for me. Three months in Greece, then straight back to Rhyl, straight into the heart of the storm.
Sunday, September 08, 1991
Day 78: Frankfurt to Paris - Training Thoughts
Train journeys are strange social experiments — quiet, confined hours spent in close proximity to total strangers, where everyone pretends not to be watching everyone else.
But of course, everyone is watching.
It’s the ritual of the observer: staring discreetly at the person opposite, then darting your eyes away the moment they make contact. It’s a subtle dance — as much a part of train travel as the ticket punch or the low rumble of the wheels.
Say what you will about the continent, but at least European trains run on time. They're clean, punctual, and notably free of graffiti like “MUFC 4EVA” or “Shaz 4 Darren” scratched into the toilet mirror. The air doesn’t reek of stale lager, and there's no sticky floor beneath your boots.
And the fares? Mercifully cheaper than back home.
Leaving Frankfurt, I settled in for the long haul to Paris — a journey made bearable by what I like to think of as seat-side theatre. You don’t need a book when the carriage offers an entire cast of characters.
The People-Watching Game
Across from me sat a middle-aged German woman, travelling with a small group who spoke in that soft-yet-stern tone peculiar to those born under heavy Teutonic skies. What fascinated me wasn’t what she said — I understood almost none of it — but her face.
Her neck was so broad that it was difficult to tell where her chin stopped and her face began. Even more captivating: at some point in her life, she had taken the time to painstakingly pluck every individual eyebrow hair… and then drawn them back on with all the elegance of a geometry set. Thin, arched, deliberate — like twin commas hovering above blank expression.
🎒 Enter the English
Around 25 people boarded with me in Frankfurt — all of them in hiking boots and ridiculous matching yellow hats, the kind children wear on school trips to make them easier to count.
They shuffled along the corridor, chirping their beige little sentences at each other.
“What time does the train leave, Roger?”“Isn’t this a beautiful station?”
Ah yes, I thought — only the English could look that daft abroad. And sure enough, I picked up the accent as they passed.
Still, they were right about the station. Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof is nothing if not beautiful — all steel, glass, and sweeping arches. A far cry from the grime of Rhyl or the existential despair of Crewe.
Roland’s Germany
Earlier in the day, Roland (my German acquaintance with something of a vendetta against his homeland) had said to me with venom:
“Welcome to Germany. Look at all the nice people in their nice cars. Look how everything has to be in order. Not a thing out of place.”
To him, Germany’s obsession with order was suffocating.
To me, coming from the grey sludge of British public spaces — broken ticket machines, gum-stained pavements, bins overflowing with chip wrappers — it was reassuring.
You begin to notice just how filthy some parts of Britain are only after you leave them.
🎫 The Journey
There’s something therapeutic about a long train ride across Europe. The world rolls past your window like a slow film. Forests become suburbs, suburbs fade into farmland. People board. People leave.
And all the while, you're sitting there — between languages, between countries, between lives — pretending not to stare at the woman with the marker-pen eyebrows while quietly judging people in yellow hats.
Saturday, September 07, 1991
Day 77: Ancona - Innsbruck - Bad Kissengen
After crawling through customs at the port of Ancona, I found myself once again at a crossroads — quite literally. With no onward ticket, no plan other than to head to Paris, and no real idea which direction to walk, my first task was to find north. The hope, as always, was to hitch a lift. I gave it a long hour by the roadside, standing in the Italian dust watching indifferent Fiats and overloaded lorries fly past. Just as I was ready to admit defeat and trudge back to the station in search of a train, fate intervened.
A VW campervan pulled up beside me. Inside were Roland and his girlfriend, Jutla — total strangers — who saw me stranded and took pity. Not just a short ride up the road, but all the way to Bad Kissengen in North Bavaria.
I climbed in, grateful and slightly dazed, and off we went — up the spine of Italy, across the Alps, and into Germany.
☁️ The Road North: Ravioli, Radios and the Return of Cold Air
We lunched on ravioli, shared stories, and cruised to a soundtrack of decent music. As the day wore on, we approached the Italian–Austrian border, stopping briefly to change money — where, for the first time in nearly three months, I felt the cold.
After a Greek summer of sweat, sun, and dust, that crisp alpine air was almost a shock. We passed through Brenner Pass, the mountains folding up around us, and caught sight of the massive Europabrücke (Europe Bridge) just before Innsbruck — an epic, sky-slicing piece of engineering, stretched above valleys and treetops. Roland pointed out a castle nestled at the foot of the mountains: once the only access through the Alps during winter, before motorways and flyovers came along.
🍺 A Bavarian Detour and a Pub Full of Cowboys
By 9 pm we reached a junction, and Roland turned to me and asked, “Left or right?” I shrugged and said left, and off we went — a spontaneous detour to Nusdorf, deep in southern Bavaria.
We parked up and headed into a local pub. It was packed with loud, beer-throated Bavarians — and when we walked in, it was like a Western: everyone stopped talking and stared at us. Roland leaned over and muttered, "That’s just how Bavarians are..."
The place was brilliant. Proper food, deep wooden booths, and best of all — real beer. Not the bottled Amstel I’d been drinking in Kythera for the past three months, but deep, earthy Bavarian lager. The kind that tastes like someone actually cares about it.
“More beer?” Roland asked after our first pint, and it didn’t take much convincing. Four pints later, I fell asleep in the back of the van, full, warm, and happily worn out.
🌧️ Nuremberg, Rain & a Midnight Rescue
We made a brief stop in Nuremberg, then continued north as night fell and the rain came down. Sometime in the early hours, Roland and Jutla gently woke me. We’d reached Bad Kissingen, a spa town in northern Bavaria. They didn’t want to leave me on the side of a motorway in the cold and dark, so they put me up at their flat, insisting I sleep properly.
We arrived at 4:30 in the morning, the kind of hour where streets are empty and the world feels paused. I crawled onto their comfy couch, grateful beyond words.
🧭 From Coastline to Castles
In a single day and night, I’d gone from Mediterranean coastline to alpine valleys, from staring hopelessly at a road in Ancona to sipping Bavarian beer in a pub where the walls practically smelled of history.
It’s the kind of journey you can’t plan — the kind that only happens when you’re travelling light, saying yes, and following strangers into the next story.
📍 Route:
Wednesday, September 04, 1991
Day 74: Leaving Kythera
The wind howled across Kythera this morning, the kind of gale that shakes shutters and whips the sea into a frenzy. For a while I thought it was fate’s way of keeping me anchored to the island, perhaps for another week. The ferries rarely challenge such weather, and with the island battered from all sides it felt like the Aegean itself wanted me to stay.
I hitched first to Potamos and then on to Agia Pelagia, expecting to find the port in lockdown, no boats daring to brave the waves. But at the Martha booking office the young woman behind the desk reassured me with a smile—it wouldn’t be Pelagia today but the more sheltered harbour at Kapsali. A ferry would leave at 5:30 p.m. Hope restored, I had a few hours to gather my scattered belongings and say my farewells.
Up at the Vouno I collected my pack, said goodbye to Cheryl, and left a note for Wayne before taking the winding road back down to Pelagia. I lingered there over lunch with an Australian teacher, though her conversation never strayed far from smoking joints and late nights. The sort of girl, I thought, you’d fall into bed with at a party and slip away from before morning.
The road carried me onward. Two Aussies gave me a lift as far as Aroniadika, then a Greek driver took me further—his car enlivened by an unlikely passenger: a London rasta with a Jamaican lilt and his Oxford-based girlfriend. Strange combinations, chance encounters; it seemed fitting as my Kytherian chapter closed.
At 6:15 p.m. the ferry pulled away from Kapsali. I stood on deck as the whitewashed villages and craggy hills slipped into the distance, swallowed by the dusk. Did I regret leaving? I wasn’t sure. Three months of steady work, food, and a bed had given me comfort and routine—but comfort can quickly turn to confinement. Out there lay uncertainty, hunger, nights without shelter… and freedom.
By the time we docked at Neapoli I had company again: the rasta, whom I dubbed “Peter Tosh,” and Marie, his girlfriend. They’d just been searched by the police and assumed it was racial harassment. But minutes later I was pulled aside too—their real quarry, it seemed, was a German causing trouble somewhere in town.
The night ended not with triumph but with fatigue. Hitching toward Sparti was hopeless; no cars stopped. I bought some bread and cheese and made do with a corner of an unfinished hotel as my bed. The stone was cold, the air damp, but I had crossed the water.
800 drachmas lighter, but one island heavier in memories, I had left Kythera.
Saturday, August 31, 1991
Day 70: Kythera - Upsetting the German hippy
The sun rose over Kythera and so did I — reluctantly, as usual. You know it’s going to be one of those days when your morning starts with Dieter (our resident mad German foreman) storming around a half-built house, shouting orders like a man one stone short of a breakdown.
We were building again today — another stone wall, another chance for bedlam. This time, it came courtesy of Irving, a German hippy with a spiritual connection to rocks. I’m not sure there’s a worse combination than patchouli and perfectionism. Irving insisted on choosing “beautiful stones” for the wall and flipped out when Georgo (my Polish co-worker) and I committed the unthinkable crime of using… cement.
To be fair, Georgo and I are hardly a slick duo. He speaks no English. I speak no Polish. So we get by in pidgin Greek — a mix of gestures, swear words. The only Polish word I know is for “shit,” which, funnily enough, sees a fair bit of use on site. "Gówno" (pronounced GOOV-no).
🌍 Meanwhile, in the Rest of the World...
While we were wrangling rocks and egos, the outside world kept spinning — and cracking.
A Ugandan Airlines 707 was forced to land in Yugoslavia today, intercepted by fighter jets and found to be carrying 19 tons of ammunition. Nobody seems entirely sure where it was headed, but it's a stark reminder that not all travel plans are made for pleasure.
In the East, the Soviet Union continues to disintegrate. Today, Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan declared independence, bringing the tally to 10 breakaway republics. Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, Armenia, Azerbaijan, Ukraine — the list grows by the week.
Wayne quipped:
We’ll know Russia’s truly democratic when they include it on the Interrail ticket.
📞 Mum, Maps & Money
Managed to get through to Mum today by phone. She said Marshall’s in Florida and heading back to the States soon. More importantly, she’s posted maps of Italy and France to help me on my next leg westward. No smartphone, no GPS, just creased paper and a vague sense of direction.
I also handed over 15,000 drachma to Martina, who promises to sort me out with more Australian dollars at the current rate.
🎭 Dieter’s Mood Report
Shockingly, Dieter didn’t lose his temper at me today — which felt almost suspicious. But he made up for it by yelling at everyone else on site. He’s not so much managing the project as surviving it one tantrum at a time. The man looks like the Kaiser and acts like he's one faulty cement mix away from exploding.
📝 Final Thoughts
Kythera is a strange place to watch the world fall apart. While republics crumble and planes full of ammo land under suspicion, I’m knee-deep in dust, swatting mosquitoes, building imperfect walls with perfect strangers.
I’m not sure where I’m heading next. But today — just for a moment — I felt like I was exactly where I needed to be: sunbaked, sweating, arguing about cement, and somehow still smiling.
On Tomorrow’s Horizon:
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Will Martina come through with the dollars?
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Will Dieter implode?
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Will Irving find the “perfect stone”?
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Will Georgo teach me another Polish swear word?
Stay tuned.
Friday, August 30, 1991
Day 69: Kythera - Jackhammers, Postcards & Soviet Breakups
Location: Kythera, Greece
Some days on Kythera unfold gently — those extremely strong and sweet Greek coffees in the sun, a breeze from the sea, a bit of hitchhiking to somewhere stunning. Today was not one of those days.
By 7am, I was back on the building site, bleary-eyed and barely functional. My shift ran through to 2:30pm and concluded with a solid 45 minutes wrestling with three donkeys. They were only marginally more cooperative than the tools.
Not an hour after regaining consciousness from a sleep that almost took me to the other side, I found myself clutching a pneumatic jackhammer, cracking through rock under the already punishing sun. Kythera may be a Greek island paradise, but today it felt more like a quarry and "Trial by Heatstroke." But shit happens, and I know you lose pieces of yourself — and find new ones too.
Still, it's only a matter of time. The man is juggling too much, barking orders, flying off the handle, and generally spiralling. If anyone's going to spontaneously combust out here, it’s him. In a strange way, I almost admire the spectacle.
Wayne, meanwhile, received a copy of the Daily Telegraph in the post. Holding a British broadsheet in the middle of the Aegean felt surreal — like a telegram from another planet. But it’s good to get some context about the wider world again, albeit from a right wing perspective.
“I think feminists are women who can’t achieve orgasm.”Ha ha - Everyone’s got a theory when the beer’s cold and the sun’s set.
Emotionally, the homesickness creeps in quietly. I’ve made my decision not to return to Wales — at least not right away — but there’s a pull. I miss the family, especially little Daniel.
And in a final note of schadenfreude: Rupert Murdoch reportedly lost £187 million last year through his newspaper empire.
Ha ha ha.There’s something soothing about rich people losing money while I count drachmas and barter my way through the Aegean summer.
Friday, August 02, 1991
Day 41: Kythera - Hard Labour, Cold Beers, and Long Walks
The alarm dragged me out of a restless sleep at 5:25am — the kind of sleep where you’re never fully under, just hovering in half-dreams. I threw on my raggy shorts and even raggier t-shirt, grabbed two big tomatoes for breakfast, and climbed the path to wait out on the main road in the faint pre-dawn light. After a long while, just as I was starting to think I’d been stood up, Kostas finally appeared around 6:30am, pulling up on his 600cc trial bike. I climbed on, and we set off.
He took me to Fatsidika — a village inland from Agia Pelagia, somewhere in the heart of Kythera’s rugged hills. I'd never been before, but it was a working place, not a tourist stop — raw and sunbaked, with the smell of cement and dust in the air. My task for the day? Unload 89 sacks of cement off a wagon, and then feed them one by one into the beton machine (I’m still not sure if “beton” is just the Greek word for cement or something slightly different — either way, it was heavy).
By 3pm I was ready for food, and the work was done and I was paid 10,000 drachmas — not bad for a day’s graft. We all sat down for a proper meal together — meat, bread, and cold beer, the best kind after a hard day in the heat. One of the many Nikos (they’re everywhere here) gave me a lift back to Pelagia, and cranked up a mix tape for the ride: The Doors, The Stranglers, and Echo & The Bunnymen blaring out of the speakers as we wound our way through the dusty roads. Perfect soundtrack.
Later that afternoon I walked down into the village and met up with Wayne. We took a swim in the sea — part wash, part cool-down — and were heading back up the hill when we bumped into Céline and Agnes, literally just as we were about to go looking for them. They were starving and there was no food at the shack and they had no money, so we convinced them to walk all the way back down the hill with us for a meal at Cafe Faros (and, naturally, beer).
Wayne stayed down in the village for the night (sleeping on the beach) — he’s working for Dieter tomorrow (traitor!). The rest of us trudged back uphill to Kalamitsi, slowly, legs aching. Céline and Agnes are leaving tomorrow — heading off to meet Philippe, Steffan, and Marie before making their way back to Paris.
I talked with Wayne about going home to Wales for a couple of weeks in September. There’ll be some challenges, for sure — the usual balancing act. But as long as I can keep working here regularly, I’ll manage. Maybe I can even stretch to a flight from Athens, if the drachs keep rolling in.