Thursday, August 15, 2024

Irish Road Trip #3 - Limerick → Cork → Waterford → Kilkenny → Carlow → Dublin → Holyhead



Didn’t sleep much last night—around 11:30pm, a gang of lads decided the quiet Limerick street outside our Airbnb was the perfect place for an impromptu five-a-side match. Thumping footballs and echoing shouts bouncing off the tarmac well past midnight. Not ideal.

We hit the road groggy but determined. First stop: Cork—though we didn’t make it to the city centre. Instead, we found our way to The Lough, a big urban lake tucked into a residential area. What a spot!
We planned for a quick look, ended up staying a couple of hours. It was packed with birdsswans, ducks, geese, pigeons, and at least a dozen other feathered creatures I couldn’t identify. Some looked prehistoric.
Charlie had a blast watching them squabble and glide around. It was peaceful, in a slightly chaotic, honking kind of way.

From there, we cut across the country to Waterford, which turned out to be properly pretty. Compact, bright, and full of little winding streets and river views. Great spot for a mid-afternoon wander.



Next up: Kilkenny. And wow.
The castle looked like it had been airlifted out of a fantasy film—stone towers, grand lawns, and more pigeons (always pigeons).
As soon as we got close, Charlie grinned and shouted:

“Oh my God! They’ve killed Kenny!”
Absolutely nailed the reference. I nearly cried laughing. Definitely one of the day’s highlights.

As the sun began to drop, we made our final push up to Carlow, winding into the outbacks, down narrow lanes where phone signal feared to tread. Our final Airbnb host greeted us with a warm smile, handed over the keys, and that was that.

...We slept for twelve solid hours. Didn’t even stir. Not even if Kenny himself had come back (again).

And then came Thursday morning, and with it, the rain.
The weather we’d managed to outrun all week finally caught up with us—sheets of it, falling hard and fast across the Carlow countryside. No official storm name, but it felt like it deserved one. Let’s call it Charlie’s Curse.

We didn’t hang about. Packed up the car, zipped our coats tight, and hit the road. It was a 90-minute motorway blast up the M9, then the M7/N7 into Dublin, wipers screeching and Charlie navigating through steamed-up windows and crumpled road maps.

In the capital, we dropped the hire car with all the subtlety of a getaway crew in GTA

“Ditch it and go!” Charlie shouted, half-laughing as we legged it toward the city centre.
Somewhere between chaos and catharsis.

With a few hours to kill before the ferry, we explored DublinGrafton Street, lively as ever with its mosaic of buskers and shoppers; stood by and looked dizzyingly up at the Spire. Had a wander through Temple Bar, cobbles slick with rain but spirits high. Dublin’s got that energy that doesn’t pause for weather or reason.



We ducked into a pub—classic Irish wood panelling, gold trim, a fireplace in the corner and red-faced drunks at the bar saying 'Feck' a lot. It was here that Charlie, always the opportunist, covertly sampled Guinness for the first time.
His verdict?

“It’s like fizzy gravy.”
Not quite a fan. But a rite of passage all the same.

Eventually, we made our way to the port for the 2:45pm ferry. The rain softened to a drizzle as we boarded, the boat rumbling to life beneath us. Ireland slowly faded from view—green hills blurring into sea mist.

It felt fitting.
A week of stories, diversions, birds, castles, and barely working wipers.

We left the Emerald Isle behind and cruised back toward the green green grass of home.


Final thoughts?
A cracking trip.
We may have zigzagged half the country, missed a few turns, and paid far too much for pizza—but we also saw things we never expected and laughed every single day.

Charlie’s already planning the next one.
Can't wait

Tuesday, August 13, 2024

Irish Road Trip #2 - Maynooth → Naas → Midlands → Limerick



Woke up to a calm, quiet morning out in the countryside near Maynooth. Our Airbnb hosts, Austin and Mary, were pottering about again—and their deaf dog gave us a fond farewell nuzzle before we hit the road.

First stop: Naas, just a short drive south. We decided to treat ourselves to breakfast, which turned out to be ridiculously expensive (again). At this point, I’m starting to think Ireland has some sort of unspoken surcharge for eggs. But coffee was good, and it gave Charlie a chance to re-fold the map, which he’d taken very seriously since assuming his role as Chief Navigator.

From there, we started weaving our way across the drizzly Midlands, avoiding the motorways where possible, taking it slow and stopping whenever the mood struck. A proper road trip day.


We passed through Kildare, where we had a mooch near the historic cathedral. There’s something quite stately about the town—compact but full of little architectural details you’d miss if you blinked. Portlaoise was next—a bit more urban, with a lived-in feel. Not a postcard town, but full of energy and proper local life. Charlie got tooted at a couple of times in his Welsh football shirt! We didn’t hang around long, just enough for a snack and a stretch.


Then, a slightly longer drive brought us to O’Brien’s Bridge, which straddles the River Shannon on the border between Clare and Limerick. The bridge itself is old stone, stretching across the water with just enough wobble in the narrow lanes to make it exciting, we took a long walk along the riverside path I'm guessing the bridge was built by O'Brien...



Eventually we rolled into Limerick. First impressions? Honestly lovely. The sun was dipping a bit by the time we got there, and the city was glowing in that soft Irish light that makes everything look a little enchanted.

We wandered around town for a while, taking in the mix of Georgian buildings, river views, and that slightly scrappy charm that makes the place feel real—not polished, but full of character.

Our Airbnb for the night was a converted townhouse owned by Sinead—she was lovely, and the place had a relaxed, bohemian feel. After dropping our stuff, we took a short walk around the local streets, then headed back into Limerick proper for the evening.

Dinner was a budget classic: Tesco Meal Deal, eaten by the River Shannon.
Not fancy, but sitting on the riverside wall with Charlie, watching the water roll past and the city lights starting to flicker on—it was perfect in its own low-key way. Simple, quiet fun.

Charlie, in between bites of his sandwich, looked around and said:

“Ireland is like Wales… but with a better economy.”
Can’t argue with that, really.


Tomorrow: Waterford (hopefully), and more of Charlie’s map-led mystery tour of the Irish countryside.

Monday, August 12, 2024

Irish Road Trip - Holyhead → Dublin → Maynooth-ish

 

And we're off.

After weeks of vague plans and even vaguer maps, the Ireland road trip officially began today.

We left the car parked back in Holyhead, strategically placed just far enough from the ferry terminal to dodge the savage parking charges. Already feeling clever.


The P&O ferry to Dublin was enormous — more shopping centre than ship — and Charlie was in his element. He tore around the decks with wide eyes, exploring everything like he was on a secret mission. We had an expensive dinner on board (standard ferry stuff — fine, but nothing to write home about unless you're writing a complaint).

After a smooth 3.5-hour crossing, we docked in Dublin Port, grabbed a bus into town, and made our way to pick up a hire car.
And then came the pain: €250.
I swear, at that price I thought I was buying the bloody thing. Still, we needed wheels. I handed over the dosh, cursing the fact I could've brought my own car for that money, and all its comforts.

Charlie climbed into the passenger seat, road map already unfolded.

Trip rule #1: No Google Maps.
Just us, an old-school road atlas, and Charlie playing Co-Pilot Navigator-in-Chief for the week. What could possibly go wrong?

Turns out, quite a bit.
Missed the turn for Maynooth on the M4 and ended up doing a lovely extended tour of the Dublin ring road — twice. Between me squinting at roundabouts and Charlie trying to make sense of junction numbers, it was a comedy of errors. Eventually, we made it out west.

Found our Airbnb a couple of miles outside Maynooth, tucked away in the countryside — very quaint, like stepping back in time. Our lovely hosts, Austin & Mary, greeted us warmly, showed us to our room, and introduced us to their deaf dog, who didn’t hear us coming but still gave us a good sniffing. The whole place had a calm, old-world feel to it. 

Once we’d settled in, we headed back into Maynooth and treated ourselves to a ridiculously overpriced Papa John’s. Hunger overrides shame. We then walked it off in the glorious evening sunshine, strolling the full length of Carlton Way. At some point on that walk, we passed a little stone boathouse by the water, tucked beside the golf course—part of the Carton House Estate, we later found out. It looked like something out of a storybook, sitting quietly in the reeds. Apparently, it was built for Queen Victoria in the 1800s. Just sitting there, quiet and forgotten, with little red rowboats docked inside. One of those places you don’t plan to see, but don’t forget either.



Knackered now, but happy. Despite a few wrong turns (literal and financial), we’re here. Tomorrow: westward, into the heart of Ireland.

Friday, July 26, 2024

Levy Punk Weekender - Day 1

Levy Punk Weekender – Friday 26.07.24


I headed up to Manchester with MWJ, Rich, and Saw for the start of the Levy Punk Weekender, a three-day celebration of DIY punk culture held at the Klondyke Club in Levenshulme. The Klondyke itself has a fittingly eccentric history – originally a working men's club, it’s since become a quirky community venue known for its welcoming vibe, outdoor stage, and fiercely independent events.

But before the official weekend kicked off, we had something special lined up – a guerrilla gig under a bridge in Fallowfield. And when I say “under a bridge,” I mean exactly that: concrete overhead, spray-painted walls, and the sound of freight trains rolling by in the distance. It felt raw and real – the kind of scene you’d expect to find in old footage of 80s hardcore shows in the U.S., not tucked away in a corner of South Manchester.

Four bands, a battered PA system, crates of beer, and a bubbling pot of vegan hotpot set the tone. The lineup? Slutch! – outrageously young and full of fire – alongside State Sanctioned Violence, Victim Unit, and WND. Each set felt urgent and completely unfiltered. As the music roared on, passersby wandered along the footpath, double-taking at the sudden burst of noise and energy in their otherwise quiet neighbourhood. It was chaotic, joyful, and just about perfect.

We spent the afternoon chatting, reconnecting with old mates, and getting to know new faces. There’s a certain magic to these unofficial gatherings – no security, no barriers, just shared passion and a love for punk in its purest form.

Two urban guerillas, Oskar Crutches and myself

Eventually, the four of us made our way to what we jokingly called Hotel Barely Adequate – a no-frills crash pad, one room, two double beds, no wardrobe and one toilet that flushed hot water! We guesstimated that the one toilet catered for about 30 people. After checking in (and checking out of life) we headed to the Klondyke to dive into the weekend proper: more beer, more bands, and a whole lot more punk rock.

The Friday night lineup didn’t disappoint. We caught a cracking range of bands, each bringing their own flavour to the mix. In alphabetical order: (I'm pretty sure these all played the Friday, I was very very drunk at the time and my notes resemble hieroglyphics!!)

  • Crutches – D-beat punks from Sweden, known for their blistering speed, raw aggression, and bottomless Buckfast reserves. Their set was absolutely feral – one of the standouts of the night.

  • Derrumbando Defensas – A politically charged punk/hardcore outfit originally from Chile but now partly based in Europe. They delivered a tight, furious set with Latin American anarcho roots and international solidarity vibes baked into every shout.

  • Flowers of Flesh and Blood – Fast, noisy and completely uncompromising. Think grindcore/hardcore with a splash of powerviolence. Not for the faint-hearted, and a total blast live.

  • Hard Skin – Legends of the punk parody world, playing up their skinhead personas with tongue firmly in cheek. Their set was as hilarious as it was catchy – a brilliant way to end the night.

  • Prise – Hardcore punk from Liverpool (I think) with a sharp, screaming edge. 

  • Yersin – Crushing, sludge-tinged hardcore with a bleak intensity that left the room breathless. Yorkshire-based, I think – very heavy, very loud, very good.

A proper mixed bag of chaos, character, and community. And that was only Day One.

(Shit pic by me - all the good ones by Rich Phillips and Saw)

Sunday, February 25, 2024

Following the Noise: A Welshman's Guide to a Matchless Match Weekend in Dublin

Dublin Rugby Weekend – February 2024

We’re Welsh, but Dublin always feels like a second home — like catching up with long-lost cousins over music, rugby, and a few too many pints. There’s something familiar in the humour, the hospitality, and the sheer love of the game. It’s like being part of one big extended family.

Saturday 24th February
It all kicked off early. Michael picked me up at half past midnight, and we made the sleepy drive to Holyhead to catch the 2:15 AM ferry. We were both running on fumes — barely an hour’s sleep — but got a bit more rest on the boat.



We docked in Dublin at 5:30 AM and headed straight to Maccy’s for breakfast. After a bit of wandering and taking in the calm before the storm, we made our way to The Arlington Hotel around 9:30 AM. The place was already buzzing — full of Welsh fans, many of whom had stayed overnight. It’s right by O’Connell Bridge, with a big bar, riverside views, and soon to be wall-to-wall rugby on the TVs. We met up with Carlos, Julie, Tim, and Lynne, and sat down for a well-earned second breakfast while the atmosphere built around us.

Although we didn’t have tickets for the game, we didn’t need them — Dublin was alive. Every pub was a stadium. The match was on Saturday afternoon, and the city came to a standstill. Every screen was crowded, every pint was raised.

Talking Points from the Match:

  • Ireland dominated, especially up front — their forwards were unstoppable at the breakdown and in the scrum.

  • Ref decisions caused a stir (as always), but there was little doubt — Ireland thoroughly deserved the win.



Saturday Night: Whelan’s

That evening, things went up another level. Thanks to my Louder Than War credentials — Neil Crud, no less — we got all six of us onto the guest list for the gig at Whelan’s. No blagging needed!

We saw Molly Vulpyne, the ferocious frontwoman of Dublin’s punk duo Vulpynes, tear it up with a solo set full of heavy riffs, howling vocals, and raw energy. It was loud, fun, and full of punch — exactly what you'd want after a big match day.

Support came from:

  • The Frenzy of Tongs – a riotous punk rock band from Providence, Rhode Island (USA). They call themselves a "punk rock circus" — and they weren’t wrong. A wild, chaotic, and brilliant set.

  • Arcadian Shadows – brought an atmospheric, melodic punk edge that perfectly set the tone for the night.

It was one of those evenings where everything just clicked — music, mood, company. Classic Dublin - and I remembered it !!

Sunday 25th February
Michael and I spent the day exploring more of the city, still riding the high of Saturday. After picking up a couple of cool books at a carboot sale, we ducked into a few quieter pubs and managed to catch the League Cup Final — Liverpool beating Chelsea — which added a cherry on top of a great weekend.

We caught the 8:30 PM ferry back to Holyhead that evening. the sea crossing was blighted by some absolute gobshite who clearly fancied himself as the entertainment. In reality, he was just a gobby cunt. One of those people who thinks being loud is the same as being funny. Sadly, no one else agreed. Still, he wasn’t enough to ruin the weekend.

Rolled into bed at around 1:30 AM — absolutely wrecked, but still buzzing. No match ticket needed — Dublin gave us everything we came for.




Thursday, November 02, 2023

India Day 3 - Train to Moradabad, Taxi to Rishikesh

 

Delhi Dust, Train Chaos & Finding First Class

New Delhi, India

We left our emergency hotel, strictly bed and no breakast, slightly disoriented, under-caffeinated, and already behind a schedule that didn't really exist. First stop was McDonald’s near Kashmere Gate Metro Station—the one inside the bus terminal complex. It was early, not yet 9 a.m., and already the place buzzed with commuters grabbing quick breakfasts before plunging into the capital’s daily chaos.

As we sat near the automatic doors, a young boy hovered outside, watching closely. He waited until a table cleared and he darted in—snatching up a leftover tomato sauce sachet, which he tore open and sucked dry like it was nectar. The image stuck with me. You always read about poverty in India, but when it’s a kid scraping ketchup off a wrapper beside your breakfast tray, it hits hard. This was real.


The Great Delhi Gauntlet

We stepped out into the smog—Tim, ever the practical one, pulled on a face mask. I laughed it off, pretending the smoke didn't bother me. (Spoiler: it did. I coughed like an old smoker.)

Our goal: New Delhi Railway Station. We entered the Kashmere Gate metro interchange, Delhi’s largest and most hectic, connecting the Yellow, Red, and Violet Lines. After a few minutes of deciphering signs and jostling with commuters, we turned around and decided to get a TukTuk to the massive railway hub, which took about 20 minutes and was far less hassle, but also death defying and VERY noisy. Sounding your car horn is compulsory in India (or Delhi at least).


How Not to Buy a Train Ticket

If you've ever tried to buy a ticket at New Delhi Railway Station, you’ll understand the word “chaos” doesn’t quite cut it. With absolutely no clue where to go, we were quickly approached by a tout who confidently took over. “You want ticket? Come, come.”

Suspicious but lost, we followed him. He ushered us toward a counter, where—miraculously—we were sold tickets heading east to Moradabad for just a few quid, plus his 50p “guide fee.” Fair enough. Tim decided we’d head that way, then switch lines north to reach Nainital via Kathgodam.


Platform Madness & a Bit of Luck



We made our way to the platform and stopped dead. It was unlike anything I’d seen: families camping on blankets, kids asleep under benches, vendors weaving through crowds shouting “chai! samosa!” and thousands of people jostling for space. The train arrived and stretched on for what felt like a mile—an enormous beast, heaving into the station.

The train is going east toward Moradabad, we joined the flood of bodies pushing into the carriages, unsure of where to sit (being politely British while everyone scrambled). It was sweaty, hectic, disorienting. People kept moving us on, indicating we were in the wrong seats. The ticket inspector found us and guided us forward through the crush of bodies to our assigned sleeper car—a four-bed compartment that felt like a tiny oasis. In First Class A/C, no less and tucked away far up the platform, it was a clean-ish, cool carriage. We sank into padded seats and accepted biriyani and chai from a uniformed attendant—just £1.50 for the works. The contrast was unreal. From street kids and station hawkers to air-con and stainless-steel trays, all within the space of an hour.

As the train finally pulled out of Delhi (late), we sat back and watched the chaos fade into countryside. It was our first real breath of India—intense, colourful, messy, and moving.

That’s where we met Deep Deep—a kind, composed Indian woman dressed in traditional attire, travelling alone to visit her sick father near Sealdah, the eastern terminus in Kolkata. Her English was excellent. What followed was 3½ hours of genuine conversation: Wales, India, culture clashes, scams, safety tips, what not to eat, and definitely what not to trust.

She offered some strong advice: “Don’t waste your time going to Nainital—it’s dirty and not worth the effort. You should go to Rishikesh instead.” We’d barely made a plan for the next step, but that was all we needed to hear. Plans changed instantly.


🏙️ Moradabad: From Tracks to Trash

As we stepped off the train in Moradabad, we entered what felt like another world—and not in a good way. Straight into the slums. Filthy, chaotic, and suffocating. Eyes were on us—hard, unfriendly stares. It felt like we were the first foreigners to set foot there (or at least the first who didn’t immediately board another train).

The main street—[likely Station Road or Budh Bazaar area]—was a jumble of shops, grime, and confusion. We considered staying the night, but absolutely nothing looked safe or clean, and the sun was sinking fast.


🚓 An Accent and an Exit Plan

Back at the station, we stared blankly at the giant wall of train schedules, none of which made sense. That’s when a policeman approached us. He spoke English, but asked me to speak in an Indian accent because he couldn’t understand my Welsh one.

Slightly bizarre. A bit racist? Maybe. But I played along—put on the accent and explained we wanted to get to Rishikesh. He laughed, then got serious. “No more trains tonight. Taxi’s your only option.”


🚖 Meet Michael Messi – Taxi Driver & Chaos Pilot

That’s how we met Michael Messi, who greeted us with a confident handshake and an unmissable smirk. £45 was the deal—four hours north to Rishikesh.

The drive? Terrifying. India’s roads don’t care about your rules or your fear. We were overtaking on blind corners, dodging cows, weaving through oncoming traffic. Every minute felt like it could be our last. And yet... somehow, we survived.

At one point, Michael pulled over for chai at a roadside family-run café. Inside, locals were glued to the TV, watching India vs Sri Lanka in the 2023 Cricket World Cup. He noticed us craning our necks to see the score and, in a gesture of unexpected kindness, handed me his phone so I could stream the match for the rest of the drive. Class.


🌙 Rishikesh at Last

We handbrake turned and doughnutted into Rishikesh at 9:30 pm, knackered but relieved. “Where’s your hotel?” Michael asked. We didn’t have one. He chuckled at our relaxed (read: totally unprepared) travel style and pulled up outside a line of guesthouses on ISBT Road. It was near the bus station and near the dried up Chandrabhaga River.

We found rooms quickly at the first place, Hotel Suruchi. Mine cost £8, with a huge ceiling fan to ward off mosquitoes. Tim’s room had a hole in the floor for a toilet. Welcome to backpacker India.




A Peaceful Night, at Last

The contrast with Delhi and Moradabad was stunning. The streets were almost silent. A single cow wandered lazily past us. We searched for food and eventually found a lively café full of locals. The food was excellent—simple, fresh, cheap.

A group of lads kept staring at us, these two Welsh boys. They were curious and warm, they asked about our trip and told us more about the area. We learned that Rishikesh is a meat- and alcohol-free city, thanks to its spiritual significance. It’s also the Yoga Capital of the World, they proudly told us.

We’d stumbled into something special. Exhausted, full, and finally breathing easy, we walked back to our rooms—ready to explore Rishikesh in daylight.

Wednesday, November 01, 2023

India Day 2 - Sleeper Bus Charade and Streets of Chaos

Location: Delhi


If Tuesday was a jet-lagged fever dream, Wednesday was the hangover.

We definitely overdid it last night—too many clandestine beers, too much laughing, and not nearly enough water (DON'T DRINK THE WATER!). This morning arrived with a pounding head and an unsettling awareness that we'd have to function like grown adults in a city that feels like a cross between a carnival and a pressure cooker.

Thankfully, Nirmal came to the rescue with a solid breakfast—spicy pancakes (savoury dosa-style with green chillies and herbs) and cooked fresh tomatoes, washed down with thick, milky coffee. Exactly the kind of comfort food you need when your stomach’s confused and your soul feels slightly bruised.

Spontaneity Strikes Again
With zero fixed plans and a desire to escape the Delhi madness, Lalid walked us through some nearby lanes and helped us book a sleeper bus north to Haldwani. We paid 1,877 INR total for two tickets—about £18—which felt like a bargain for an overnight ride.
Haldwani is a small city in the Indian state of Uttarakhand, about 280 km (175 miles) northeast of Delhi. It sits at the base of the Kumaon hills and is known as the "Gateway to Kumaon"—a sort of launchpad for heading into the Himalayas.


Through Visham’s translation, Nirmal explained that he’s originally from Nainital, a beautiful hill town about 40 km (25 miles) from Haldwani, nestled in the Himalayan foothills and set around a picturesque lake. It sounded idyllic—and cold. We are definitely not dressed for anything resembling winter, so we’re improvising as we go. Again.

I picked up a body warmer from a street market—just £4—and although it’s probably not windproof or waterproof or any kind of proof, it felt like a small gesture in the preparedness department. I squeezed it into my crammed rucksack. Functional fashion at its finest. Oh yeah, earlier I saw some old Sikhs, playing Shabad Kirtan, a hymn thing that is a central part of Sikh worship and involves the singing of holy hymns from the Guru Granth Sahib (the Sikh holy scripture) - it was immersive and hypnotic and extremely infectious to witness as they sauntered past.

What Even Is Kashmere Gate #5?
The bus was scheduled to depart from Kashmere Gate ISBT (Inter-State Bus Terminal), Platform #5, which—despite sounding official—is more like a sprawling, chaotic tangle of entrances, exits, platforms, and complete confusion.
We had no idea what the “Gates” actually were when we booked the bus. Turns out, the terminal is massive and split across multiple “bus stops” and “platforms” that aren't clearly marked, and aren’t always organized in any obvious order. It’s also a magnet for touts and misinformation, so finding the right bus felt like trying to solve a riddle in a different language while standing in the middle of a car horn orchestra.

Before that adventure, we spent the day walking through several different parts of Delhi, trying to take in as much as we could.


Majnu-ka-Tilla: A Slice of Tibet

We entered what we later discovered is called Majnu-ka-Tilla—Delhi’s Tibetan Enclave—by stumbling through tight, dark alleyways. It’s densely packed, a mix of incense, momo steamers, monks, and posters of the Dalai Lama. Despite the cramped conditions and visible poverty, there was a strange tranquility to it—young people sipping chai, monks laughing with vendors, signs in Tibetan and English above small restaurants. It felt like a different world inside an already different world. We had a chai tea at a cafe, a young boy was washing up as a rat scurried around his bare feet. He wasn't bothered by this as he was transfixed with Tim and myself, already battle scarred and looking rugged as we sipped the warm brew. The price was about 30p, I gave the cafe owner 100 rupees (about 90p) and gestured he kept the change. He seemed almost insulted that I wanted to tip him, so I insisted the kid got the money.


Saddar Bazaar were on the same label as my band, Sons Of Selina

Industrial Markets & Night-Time Wanderings
Later in the evening, we unintentionally walked through Jama Masjid in Old Delhi, a Muslim-majority area, where men were seated in lines along the pavement, waiting for food donations—possibly Iftar-style communal meals, even though it's not Ramadan. A solemn, powerful sight. Shocking to see Halal cows heads on display (not so sacred in this part of town!)
We found somewhere to change money (India is a closed currency, so you can't do it at home), and while Tim was negotiating his exchange I gave a kid outside a 100 rupee note; he was selling shoes at a shop next door and his face lit up like it was Christmas. 

Our aimless wandering led us into an industrial/hardware district—called Sadar Bazaar, where shop after shop sold cement, pipes, industrial fans, timber, plumbing parts—all lining regular streets. It was staggering in scale and utterly disorienting. No zoning, no separation—just industry and humanity piled on top of each other in an organic sprawl.


And Then… No Bus.
After soaking up an overwhelming day, we returned to the smog of Kashmere Gate around 9:30pm, ready (we thought) for our sleeper bus to Haldwani. Only… it never came. Or it did, but we were either in the wrong place, the wrong line, or both.
Instructions were vague at best, often contradictory. One person pointed one way, another waved us somewhere else. The language barrier, lack of signage, and general overload finally defeated us. 10pm became 10:30. Then 11. At some point, we admitted defeat.

With no bus, no clue, and no plan, we grabbed a last-minute hotel nearby for £13 a room. It wasn’t much, but it was a bed and a door that locked. We’ll regroup in the morning and try again.


Reflections:
Delhi is not a city that holds your hand. It throws you in, chews you up, and expects you to keep moving. We’re improvising, adapting, and learning the hard way—but there’s a strange kind of thrill in it all. Nothing is certain. Nothing is smooth. But every single experience feels raw and real.

Tuesday, October 31, 2023

India Day 1 - From Manchester to Madness – First Impressions of Delhi

Location: Safdarjung Enclave, New Delhi


After what feels like a 18-hour blur of motion, I’m writing this from the calm(ish) cocoon of a budget hotel in the Safdarjung Enclave, New Delhi. The journey began at 6am yesterday—a bleary-eyed dash to Manchester, followed by long-haul hops to Doha and finally Delhi. My travel companion Tim and I touched down in the Indian capital sometime this morning, unsure of time zones, dates, or the exact sequence of transit lounges we passed through.

Delhi is… something else.



There’s no easy way to describe it. Within minutes of leaving the airport, we were thrown into a living, breathing, honking, dusty tapestry of chaos. It’s utterly mind-blowing. The heat slams you like a hammer, even in late October. The air tastes like firecrackers and tandoori smoke. Nothing works quite the way you think it should—phones glitch, maps send you in loops, directions are vague and wildly optimistic. Everything familiar is stripped away, replaced by a glorious, unrelenting mess of humanity.

It took us hours to find our hotel. Not exaggerating—hours. But eventually, with sweat-drenched shirts and fried brains, we landed at The Deer Park Hotel in Safdarjung Enclave. It's tucked away on a residential street not far from the city's Deer Park, which is surprisingly leafy and quiet compared to the madness outside. For just £25 a night, the place is a gem—clean, secure, and full of personality.


Our hosts don’t speak English, and we speak absolutely zero Hindi. That hasn't stopped a connection, though. The hotel is run by a guy named Lalid—probably around 30—who's clearly the boss but runs the place with a calm kindness. His sidekicks, Nirmal and Pankat, seem to do a bit of everything: cooking, laundry, even security. One of them sleeps on a blanket behind the front desk. It’s humble, but there’s a kind of functional dignity to it all.

Given my infamous snoring and the extremely affordable local rates, Tim and I went for separate rooms. A wise choice. Mine is simple but cool, decorated with a kind of psychedelic, budget-hippie flair. Think tie-dye patterns, colourful lights, and rickety furniture that somehow works. The bathroom runs the length of the room, with an open window and a makeshift shower rigged into one corner. I kept the door firmly shut to fend off mosquito invasions.

We crashed hard for a few hours—pure survival sleep—and woke up around 4pm, jetlagged and confused but in need of coffee and curiosity. We stayed local, exploring the streets of Safdarjung, which pulse with the kind of energy you’d expect from a city of 30 million. Small food stalls, honking rickshaws, children playing cricket in alleys, men welding in open garages, women shopping in bright saris—it’s a full sensory overload. And yet, it works. Kind of.

Delhi shuts down surprisingly early—everything winds up around 10pm. So we headed back to the hotel, where things got... interesting.


Back at base, the informal after-hours scene kicked in. Turns out our hotel runs a kind of mini black market bar after dark, thanks to a guy named Visham—a guest from Mauritius who’s in town while his wife undergoes medical treatment. He speaks fluent Hindi and English, and quickly became our translator, negotiator, and drinking buddy.

Beer here doesn’t come from a fridge—it’s summoned like a spell. You make a discreet call, and some guy on a moped delivers your drinks under cover of darkness. We ordered four cans each—about £10 total, which feels steep for India, but this is the black market. Spirits appeared too, ordered by our local friends. I’m fairly sure we had more than one delivery and absolutely certain we drank more than we should have.


It was a brilliant night. Laughter flowed, language barriers dissolved, and the strangeness of the day turned into something communal, even joyful. We also counted down Tim's Sober October ten seconds to midnight, with a huge cheer as he cracked open a can of beer to break his month long alcohol fast. As the night / early hours wore on I’ve no idea how much of what was said made sense, but that didn’t seem to matter. This is what travel does—it shoves you into the unfamiliar, forces you to adapt, and gifts you moments of unexpected connection.


First Impressions:
Delhi is raw, overwhelming, and doesn’t care whether or not you’re ready for it. But somewhere inside the madness, there's rhythm, beauty, and warmth. We’ve only just arrived, and already it feels like this trip is going to change us.

More soon. Probably with a hangover.

Monday, July 31, 2023

Show #85 - Louder Than War Radio

SHOW #85 (Broadcast 31.07.23) (listen)
[Resistance is futile…]

Rabo De Toro – Fake News Knobheads
TV Smith – Fake News
Revenge Of The Psychotronic Man – Fake News
Hoax – Fake News
The Crash Mats – Thundercats
Slund – Get Down With It
The Sewer Cats – Get It
Electric Press – Get Away
BBR – Get Away From Her, You Bitch!
The Mistakes – The Mourning After (*session)
Empty Mourning – Pride
Los Blancos – Christina
BUG CENTRAL – Another Vegan Hipster
Dishope – Hail Saitan Go Vegan
Dan Amor – Is This Reality
Snakes Among Us – Isolated
Sona – Gone But Not Forgotten
MC Mabon – People Are So Stupid
The Assouls – Stupid People
Evil Blizzard – Stupid People
Y Cyrff – Anwybyddwch Ni
Bring The Drones – Ignore The Bodies
Tystion – Yr Anwybodus
Knuckle Scraper – Pizza Suicide
1987tilpresent – Over Polite
Minus – Chaos
Beef – DNA
Rum Lad – DNA
Mr Phormula – Don’t Mind Me
Celavi – Neb Arall
The Dry Retch – Inside
Overpower – Overpower
Maines – Electric Eyes
White Ether – All Things Must Change
PRIMITIVE LIFE – Man Made Disaster Cwlt Draig – Y Ddraig Aur
Lullaby For A Unicorn – Alan Raiders
Ectogram – Byth Yn Bwrw Fel Hyn
Napalm Death – Throes of Joy in the Jaws of Defeatism



Monday, July 17, 2023

Bordeaux Diary: July 2023



Declan & Me vs. Southwest France


🌧️ Saturday, 15 July 2023 — “Planes, Trains & Baguettes in the Rain”

After a truly cinematic Friday night journey involving planes, trains, and automobiles (not necessarily in that order), Declan and I landed in Bordeaux ready for adventure. We crashed at what was most likely the Mercure Bordeaux Aéroport, though let’s be honest—we could’ve been in a shed with Wi-Fi and we’d have been fine. Unwittingly, we arrived as Bastille Day was ending, hence all the fireworks popping off across the country, which we saw from above as we flew in on this night flight. The French celebrate the Storming of the Bastille on July 14, 1789, which was a pivotal event in the French Revolution, symbolizing the uprising of the modern French nation and the end of absolute monarchy. (UK take note!).

Woke up with big plans and questionable logic: we decided to walk from the airport into the city... in the warm rain. Why? Because we are noble fools. It took two hours of damp socks and determination.

On the way, we found a Carrefour Market (like a French Spar, but French and not grotty). We grabbed baguettes, cheese, and tomatoes—basically French travel fuel—and had a glamorous picnic on a stone ledge outside a cemetery. Based on our path, it was probably the Protestant Cemetery on Rue Judaïque, but we can’t rule out the possibility it was just a really fancy yard.

By afternoon, we checked into the cozy and lively Hostel 20 at 20 Rue Borie, tucked into the Chartrons district. Great vibes, nice people, and just the right level of mildly chaotic backpacker energy.

The rest of the day? Bar-hopping, sightseeing, and wandering through Bordeaux’s beautiful centre, soaking in the architecture, atmosphere, and literal rain. Saw the prominent twin spires of Basilica of Saint Michael (Basilique Saint-Michel) and Grosse Cloche (Great Bell), which is one of the oldest belfries in France located on the Rue Saint-James. Also walked down the side of the huge Garonne River. We clocked a casual 32,000 steps, which surely earns us points. Got back around 11 PM, knackered but smug.




☁️ Sunday, 16 July 2023 — “Eggs, Lakes & Unexpected Dumplings”

We emerged from bed around 10 AM like victorious slugs and inhaled the hostel breakfast, which involved boiled eggs, cucumber, red peppers, and bread. Very continental chic. Honestly, we felt like stylish goats grazing at a picnic.

The goal of the morning: a walk to Le Lac (yes, that’s its actual name), an artificial lake in Bordeaux‑Lac, north of the city. It’s a proper green retreat with trees, paths, and that weird peaceful energy you only find near still water and joggers.

We stumbled on a pop-up Chinese market—like a lakeside car boot sale mixed with delicious smells and mystery dumplings. It was totally random and kind of amazing. Vendors sold everything from steamed buns to knock-off phone cases.

We then wandered through woodland trails near the lake, where we sheltered under trees from more rain, because apparently Bordeaux in July was feeling dramatic. At one point, we crossed what we’re 99% sure was the Passerelle du Lac, a rope-style pedestrian bridge that made us feel like we were on a budget jungle expedition.

By afternoon, we were back in the city and sauntering from bar to bar again—not for wine (we’re not French, after all), but for the vibes, the fizzy things, and the joy of pretending we were locals who “just happened to walk 26,000 steps” today. Casual.




😅 Monday, 17 July 2023 — “The Bag, the Bar, and the Bloody Flight”

Our last day in Bordeaux and, honestly, we just wanted to chill out and soak in a bit more of this beautiful city. No plans. No step goals. Just two classy lads, feet sore but spirits high. Declan, by the way, is excellent company—as much my best friend as he is my son.
We did a bit of Bordeaux Cathedral, formally known as the Cathédrale Saint-André de Bordeaux, with its impressive Gothic architecture and also Rue Sainte-Catherine is famous for being the longest pedestrian shopping street in Europe.

We drifted from bar to bar again—soft drinks, rosehip cordials, and the occasional espresso ONLY JOKING! We had beer and more beer!. Somewhere between our fifth sit-down and seventh bad pun, it was time to head to the airport via tram.



Then came… THE BAG INCIDENT.

About halfway to the airport, I had that terrible, soul-leaving-your-body realisation:
“WHERE’S MY RUCKSACK?”
And not just any rucksack—this was the one containing my passport. And we were already on the tram. Heading away from it.

Cue emergency tram exit. We jumped off at the next stop like bargain-bin Bourne identities, waited for a tram heading back the other way, and shot back toward the city.

Miraculously, the last pub we were in had kept it safe—some kind soul had stashed it behind the bar. French hospitality? Fate? Just luck? We don’t know. But we are grateful.

With nerves jangling, we finally made it to the airport… only for RyanAir to delay our flight. Not enough for compensation (of course not—it’s RyanAir), but just enough to ensure maximum inconvenience and zero sleep.

Landed in Manchester at 2:30 AM, and finally reached Bangor by 5:00 AM. Just enough time to squeeze in one glorious hour of sleep before I was due at work. Living. The. Dream.


🥖 Summary Stats

📅 Day 🥾 Steps ☔ Weather 🍷 Wine Consumed 🧀 Cheese Consumed
Sat 15th 32,000+ Warm rain Zero Abundant
Sun 16th 26,000 Light rain Still zero Obviously yes
Mon 17th Unknown (lost count) Mostly dry, until RyanAir rained on us Still none Somehow, yes

Sunday, May 21, 2023

Barcelona Mayhem: Punk, Pints & Pyrrhic Victories

Day 1 – Thursday 18th May 2023: Classic Welsh Send-Off & the Journey Begins

We kicked things off with a classic Welsh send-off, gathering at Llandudno Junction stationme, Carlos, Steve, Mic, Tim, and his dad, Keith. The atmosphere was already buzzing. The train took us to Liverpool Lime Street, where we stopped for a few pints at the Crown Hotel—a proper old-school pub full of stained glass, polished wood, and that comforting scouse hum.

Then it was on to the shuttle bus to the airport and a smooth 2-hour flight to Barcelona.

After landing, we made our way to our large but totally antiquated apartment near the old Bullring. The place had charm, doors that didn’t shut, a shower with a mind of its own (and creaking floorboards) in equal measure, but it was home for the rest of the week—and we were ready.

We dropped our bags and headed straight out in search of drinks, after all this was a pub-crawl disguised as a cultural getaway. At the first bar we found, Tim, parched and ever the optimist, walked up and asked the barman:

“A pint of John Smith’s, please.”
The barman blinked. Then, in total confusion:
“Fish and chip?”

We lost it. That line became the running joke for the rest of the trip.


Day 2 – Friday 19th May 2023: Sagrada Awe, Subway Wanders & 6am Madness

We kicked things off with a bit of culture—a visit to the Sagrada Família. I've seen it twice before, but honestly, it never gets any less jaw-dropping. Gaudí’s unfinished masterpiece is like a gothic dream crossed with an alien spaceship—spires twisting into the sky, stonework so intricate it feels alive. Spiritual or not, you can’t help but feel something. Never got to see inside though as we'd still probably be waiting in the queue to get in now!

From there, we crisscrossed the city on Barcelona’s brilliant metro system. Clean, efficient, fast—ideal. But those long underground tunnel walks between stations? Absolute calf-killers, especially in the heat and after a few Estrellas.

The day turned into a rolling pub crawl. We wandered through neighbourhoods, ducking into bars with cold beer and wild soundtracks. One spot had weird cocktails, another had punk posters peeling off the walls—each one a little gem. The city became a blur of laughter, glasses clinking, and music blasting from open doors.

Eventually, we got back to the apartment—but crashing wasn’t on the cards.
Instead, the six of us ended up throwing our own party. Just us, but the way we were carrying on, it felt—and definitely sounded—like the flat was packed. The music was loud, the drinks kept flowing, and somehow the neighbours didn’t complain.

We finally called it a night at 6am. Or more accurately, we called it a morning.


Day 3 – Saturday 20th May 2023: Camp Nou Majesty, Loudmouths & Late-Night Kebabylon

After a much-needed lie-in and a recovery session that involved more coffee than conversation, Steve, Mic, and I headed out for something special: a night at the Camp Nou.

Even walking up to it is a buzz. The scale of the stadium is something else—88,000 seats, wrapped in concrete history. You don’t just watch football here; you feel it. Every seat, every chant, every echo is soaked in decades of glory, heartbreak, and pure passion.

We watched Barcelona take on Real Sociedad. Barça had already sealed La Liga, but Sociedad came to spoil the mood. A quick goal from Merino, followed by Sørloth’s second-half finisher, gave them the edge. Lewandowski pulled one back late, but it ended 1–2—Barça’s first home defeat of the season. Still, the atmosphere was electric, even in defeat.

After the match, we linked back up with Tim, Carlos, and Keith at an Irish bar. They were already a few pints deep and full of life. We settled in... until we encountered a bloke from Leicester with a voice so loud it felt like your brain was short-circuiting. Every sentence he shouted was like a fire alarm test in a broom cupboard.
We made a sharp exit.

Next, we stumbled into a bar with a YouTube jukebox—and that’s when things got surreal.

We queued up a few tracks, and suddenly Spam Javelin’s “Nazi Line Dancers Fuck Off” was blasting across a bar in Barcelona. Then up came The Affliction, Steve’s band, with their classic “Good People.” Watching our own noise on-screen with strangers around us—absolute magic. Punk DIY dreams made real, one blurry video at a time.

We stayed for a couple of hours, revelled in the weirdness, and then, like true champions, finished the night at Kebabylon—a spiritual experience in the form of greasy late-night food.

Back to the apartment and asleep by 4am, dreaming in feedback and falafel.


Day 4 – Saturday 20th May 2023: Cable Cars, Card Swaps & a Feast Fit for Kings

By Day 4, we were craving something less hectic—and daylight. After dragging ourselves up, in a post-vegetative state, we stumbled out and hit up the Mercat de Sant Antoni Sunday market—a few minutes from our apartment. The place was alive with locals: stalls piled high with books, vinyl, comics... and kids swapping Pokémon cards like it was some underground trade summit. No official tournament, just pure trading chaos at benches and corners, like Sunday morning Pokémon capitalism in action .

After breakfast we made our way down to the Port Vell cable car (the Transbordador Aeri del Port) from Sant Sebastià across the harbour. Ten glorious minutes of floating above the Mediterranean, with glittering sea, docked yachts, a huge Virgin cruise ship, and the city’s red roofs stretched out beneath us. We hopped off at Miramar, our spirits lifted by the sea breeze.

Down we slid on the Montjuïc funicular—a swift, scenic link from the tram network into the leafy slopes of Montjuïc—before strolling/staggering through gardens and fountains, catching glimpses of Barcelona from above. A perfect antidote to the previous nights' chaos.


As the sun dipped, we recharged at the apartment, then headed back to the old Bullring (Las Arenas) for a proper dinner. We picked Pura Brasa Arenas, a brasserie inside the converted bullring/shopping centre by Plaza España.

The feast was modest—I lied:

  • Steve demolished a steak the size of a cow. No exaggeration.

  • I tackled a mac & cheese portion so massive it could’ve fed a vegetarian brigade.

  • Keith got stuck into a full meal and single-handedly polished off a bottle of red like it was lunch.

Massive portions, bold flavours—and nobody left hungry.


We rolled back to the apartment under the city lights, feet sore and stomachs full. No late-night rager tonight—just content, comfy, and oddly proud we managed to keep the rest of the trip from spiralling. Sometimes, relaxing counts as an added bonus even on a boys' trip abroad. Although Keith and Mic did stay out and rolled in about midnight and raring for a party!

Day 5 – Sunday 21st May 2023: Homeward Bound (Eventually)

And just like that, the end crept up on us.

We woke up slowly — more like resurrection than waking, really — and began the familiar dance of packing up, finding passports, checking pockets for keys, chargers, dignity. The apartment looked like it had hosted a student rave and a tactical retreat all at once: pizza boxes, empty bottles, broken bottles, mystery socks, and hangovers hanging in the air like incense.

Still, spirits were oddly high. Probably because we’d somehow made it through five days in Barcelona without any major injuries, arrests, or international incidents.

We grabbed a final coffee (or whatever form of caffeine we could hold down), and made our way toward El Prat Airport — swapping war stories from the week, quoting barmen and loud Leicester lads, arguing about who snored the worst (me), and whose turn it was to forget something important (Michael).

A 2-hour flight later, we touched down in Liverpool, dragging ourselves back toward Llandudno Junction, where it had all begun.

Somewhere between the pints, the platform announcements, and the last of our leftover Euros being blown on crisps and snacks, it hit us: we’d nailed this trip. Loud, messy, no sunburn and brilliant —  nailed it.

Back to Llandudno Junction, back to Wales, and back to normality — or something close to it.

Postscript: A Sad Note

When I got home, the comedown hit harder than usual. Not just because the trip was over — but because I found out that Algy Ward had died.

If you know, you know. His basslines weren’t just riffs — they were anthems. And The Damned's Machine Gun Etiquette wasn’t just an album — it was a way of life. That record is one of my all-time favourites, and Algy’s playing on it still knocks me sideways. Loud, tight, fearless. Pure energy. The best heavy metal bass player punk ever had, in my book.

He never played it safe. And neither did we, not on this trip. So it feels right to raise a glass — belatedly — to Algy. A legend. A lifeblood. A part of the noise that made us.